I just got back from boogie boarding 10-12 foot+ waves in the city of Ventura. It's about one hour north of Los Angeles.
People call these waves "double over head". I have surfed double-baby overhead before, which is about 2 babies high, so I thought I could handle these, but when I got there, I saw that the waves were too big for me to surf, so I brought out my boogie board and flippers. It was very rough, and hard to paddle out to the waves. When I finally got there, my breath was very heavy and the waves looked like giant apartment buildings coming at me. Just as I was thinking about what kind of fish and creatures live in these liquid apartment buildings, I saw two dolphins surfing on a 10 foot wave. I wrote an earlier blog post about seeing dolphins surf. I really wanted to catch the wave with these dolphins, so I turned around and paddled, but I missed it. I didn't see the dolphins again. I guess they rode that wave in to the beach and went home.
It was pretty scary to be out in these big waves and paddle over them. At first, I was scared of them, but then a giant one broke right in front of me. I was in the worst place to be. It was a lot of water. I took a big breath and dove under the wave and waited to be thrown around by the ocean and held under, but Mr. Ocean only shook me a little bit for a few seconds and then popped me out onto the surface. That was very kind of him.
I caught a nice 10 foot wave, and rode it all the way to the beach. At the end of my ride, it broke in a hollow tube, and I popped out of it. When I grow up, I want to be a wave just like that one, or a fire truck.
People call these waves "double over head". I have surfed double-baby overhead before, which is about 2 babies high, so I thought I could handle these, but when I got there, I saw that the waves were too big for me to surf, so I brought out my boogie board and flippers. It was very rough, and hard to paddle out to the waves. When I finally got there, my breath was very heavy and the waves looked like giant apartment buildings coming at me. Just as I was thinking about what kind of fish and creatures live in these liquid apartment buildings, I saw two dolphins surfing on a 10 foot wave. I wrote an earlier blog post about seeing dolphins surf. I really wanted to catch the wave with these dolphins, so I turned around and paddled, but I missed it. I didn't see the dolphins again. I guess they rode that wave in to the beach and went home.
It was pretty scary to be out in these big waves and paddle over them. At first, I was scared of them, but then a giant one broke right in front of me. I was in the worst place to be. It was a lot of water. I took a big breath and dove under the wave and waited to be thrown around by the ocean and held under, but Mr. Ocean only shook me a little bit for a few seconds and then popped me out onto the surface. That was very kind of him.
I caught a nice 10 foot wave, and rode it all the way to the beach. At the end of my ride, it broke in a hollow tube, and I popped out of it. When I grow up, I want to be a wave just like that one, or a fire truck.